Cast Counterfeits
Made by pouring molten metal into a mold from a genuine coin. Most common type.
How to Spot
- Seam line — Thin raised line around the edge where mold halves met. #1 diagnostic.
- Porous surface — Tiny pits and bubbles visible under 10x magnification.
- Mushy details — Letters and design elements appear soft and rounded.
- Wrong weight — Often wrong alloy (too heavy or too light).
- Dull ring — Thud instead of clear ring when dropped on hard surface.
- No cartwheel luster — Missing the flow lines that create rotating light pattern.
Die-Struck Counterfeits
Made using custom dies and a press. More dangerous — can replicate details accurately.
How to Spot
- Transfer die markers — Same bag marks on multiple coins = same counterfeit die.
- Wrong die characteristics — Subtle differences in letter shapes and star points.
- Wrong edge reeding — Incorrect count, spacing, or depth.
- "Too perfect" — Lacking natural variation seen in genuine Mint products.
Under Magnification
A 10x loupe reveals: flow lines (present on genuine, absent on casts), surface texture differences, edge details, and letter diagnostics.
Up Next
This guide is for educational purposes. Where official standards, grading services, organization memberships, or legal requirements apply, consult the primary authority named in the references below or the relevant government agency.
Reviewed on February 1, 2026 by the US Coin Shows editorial team. Editorial policy
Official references and further reading
Frequently Asked Questions
How can I tell if a coin is a cast counterfeit?
Look for: seam line around edge, porous surface under magnification, mushy details, wrong weight, dull sound, and no cartwheel luster.
What is a die-struck counterfeit?
Made using custom dies and a press. More dangerous than casts. Look for transfer die markers (same marks on multiple coins), wrong reeding, and incorrect die characteristics.
Apply what you've learned